Arcade Otaku Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

PCB Cleaning 101

2016-06-21T10:38:21Z

Devil soundwave: /* Corrosion (acid damage, salt water spray, etc.) */

=Cleaning Circuit Boards=
There are a variety of methods that can be used to clean circuit boards depending on the type of board, the type of grime, and experience level and available tools of the person doing the cleaning.

You must ask yourself one important question before cleaning a circuit board: "Is having the board clean worth the risk of breaking it in the process?" This is particularly true if the board is working, but just dirty. Cleaning a circuit board always involves a risk of damaging the board or the components on it. (If the board is already broken and you need to clean it to attempt repairs, the decision is obviously much easier.)

==A Note Regarding the Author==
The information below was gleaned from an old newsgroup entry, and was originally posted by a (presumably American) chap called Clay. In the interests of sharing this excellent information with a wider audience,I am putting it here in the Wiki for posterity.

Clay - if you are reading this, thanks for writing this excellent guide, hope you don't mind us reproducing it here. If you do, just drop us a note and we'll remove it for you. :)

- Devil Soundwave

==Dust (or other dry, free flowing solids)==
To remove dust or other light debris from a printed circuit board it is generally advisable to simply brush the substance with either an old (dry) toothbrush, a dry (clean) paint brush, or the "upholstery" brush from a vacuum cleaner. Once the dirt is loose, the brush can be used to directly whisk the dust away, or a compressed air source can be used to blow the board clean. It is generally not advisable to use an operating vacuum cleaner to try to remove dirt from a circuit board unless it is a specially designed vacuum cleaner for electronics work. (A household vacuum cleaner can generate thousands of volts of static electricity at the head of the hose which can cause damage to some electronics.)

==Grime (dust/dirt mixed with something tacky - oil, Pepsi, wax, etc.)==
Grime is particularly common on monitor chassis boards where high temperatures cause outgassing of components coated with wax. The wax forms a sticky film on the board which traps dirt easily-- and since the high-voltage potential of the monitor anode will attract airborne particles, monitor boards can become particularly filthy. Other boards will sometimes become encrusted with dirt and gunk that simply won't brush away, so more aggressive cleaning can be become necessary.

Grime that appears to be mixed with some form of oil or wax (or spilled Coke, or Pepsi, or God-knows-what else) will need some form of detergent applied followed by mild scrubbing to expunge the offending contaminants.

Your first step should be to remove any socketed components (chips, cables,etc.). These parts can be cleaned separately using the technique described below-- and removing them now will let the cleaning process get under the sockets and clean much more completely than if you left the parts in place.(Of course, you will need to make note of where the socketed components go to make sure you get them replaced in the correct locations and with the proper orientation.)

Certain components may not react well to liquid-based cleaning. Old open-frame/carbon film potentiometers, any components contained in cardboard, and older non-watertight crystals may be damaged by contact with liquids. You may wish to desolder these components to be safe if you have them on the board to be cleaned. Also note that many types of stickers will be destroyed by this process, so EPROMs may need to be recovered, etc.

The actual cleaning of the board can usually be safely accomplished by spraying the surface with a generous amount of a household, non-phosphate based cleaner. "Simple Green" and "409" seem to work quite well. Let the cleaner sit for 10-15 seconds to loosen the dirt and then scrub lightly with an old toothbrush or clean paint brush. (A 2.5" wide nylon paintbrush will make short work of grunge on a monitor chassis with a liberal spray of '409' applied!). Once the board is scrubbed down, you will need to rinse it *very* well with water. Technically speaking, a demineralized/purified water should be used, but tap water is probably fine for 99% of applications. A spray attachment from a kitchen sink works well for rinsing and for monitor chassis' a garden hose with a spray-head is quite effective.(Random semi-related warning-- do NOT clean the silver/grey coating off of the back of a monitor CRT! It is a required coating for proper operation of the monitor!)

After rinsing, carefully blot the circuit board dry with a clean terry-cloth towel (and shake it to get hidden water out). Compressed air (either from a can or a compressor) can also be used to blow off excess water.

Thorough drying of the circuit board is critical. While hand-drying the board, preheat a household oven to about 170 degrees F. Once the oven is up to temperature, turn the oven OFF, and place the cleaned PCB inside the oven and close the door. Allow then board to dry for 2-3 hours. (Overnight is fine.) It's a good idea to warn roommates/spouse when you do this. (Having someone preheat the oven the 500 degrees to broil a roast while you board is still in the oven is *bad*.)

After the drying cycle is complete you can remove your board from the oven and perform a visual inspection for any damage. If unsealed potentiometers are on the board (like a monitor chassis) they may need to be turned back and forth several times to remove any residue from the wiper area to regain smooth operation.

An alternate method for cleaning this type of grime is to use the clean/rinse cycles of a household dish-washer. Make sure the dishwasher is free of any food particles and place the board inside like you would a large plate. A small amount of dish-washing detergent can be added to help the cleaning process, and if possible the water temperature should be set to the lowest setting. You will want to remove the board from the dish washer at the end of the rinse cycle (do not use the dish-washer's dry cycle as it is not well temperature-regulated-- use the oven technique listed above).

==Solder Flux (brownish crusted material on the solder-side of the PCB)==
Many solder fluxes used in PCB repair and some types of manufacturing are water resistant. They will leave a yellow-to-brownish "crust" on the pins of chips on the circuit board's solder-side. This is usually the result of a previous repair that was not properly cleaned.

Solder flux can usually be removed with household rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. Wet the toothbrush with the alcohol, and gently scrub.Repeated applications may be necessary. If available, anhydrous alcohol (used for electronics cleaning) works much faster. Blot the cleaned area with a non-linting tissue (like Kimwipes EX-L) or a clean towel.

There are also commercial cleaners used for flux and grease removal. Some types of cleaners are available from Radio Shack, but are generally overpriced and of marginal quality. A professional grade cleaner like Tech Spray's "Envi-Ro-Tech 1676" will perform best but can be more difficult for a hobbyist to obtain.

==Paint (spray paint, latex, etc.)==
Paint in and of itself is usually not harmful to the operation of a game PCB. Since paint can be difficult to remove, unless you need to clean the board for repair work it may be best to leave it alone.

If you have to clean the paint off, try to determine what type it is. Spray paints will generally come off with standard mineral spirits or paint thinners. Follow up use of any thinners or paint removers with the cleaning procedure for "Grime". Latex paints can be removed with latex cleaners, or sometimes soap and water. Your mileage may vary.

Before selecting a cleaner to try, remember that many old chips have their numbers painted or silk-screened on (modern chips are usually laser etched).Paint removal techniques can often strip transistors or chips of their markings making identification very difficult.

Also note that most PCB silk-screening and printed circuit boards themselves are epoxy based-- an aggressive paint removal product that works against epoxy (MEK, JASCO, etc.) may damage the PCB or silkscreen.

==Corrosion (acid damage, salt water spray, etc.)==
Corrosion should be neutralized and cleaned as soon as possible. The most common forms of corrosion on game PCB's will usually be salt-air exposure and battery acid (from Lithium or NiCad batteries).

In the case of battery acid leakage, the board should be neutralized with a mixture of baking soda and water forming a thin paste. Gently scrub the paste into the PCB with a toothbrush and let it sit for 20-30 minutes. Note that acids can often get under the protective solder-mask coating of a PCB and travel along the traces to areas quite far from where the visible battery damage has occurred. A neutralizing "soak" with the base mixture will help mitigate any further ingress of the acid.

EDIT: It has been pointed out that not all "battery acid" is in fact, acid. Trying to neutralize NiCad leakage with bicarb (another alkali) will not work, you need to use an acid such as good old white vinegar.

After soaking/scrubbing, rinse the board thoroughly and follow-up with the "Grime" cleaning procedure listed above.

For boards suffering from salt-air or water-based corrosion, the cleaning procedure for "Grime" is usually all that is required.

Salt and acid damaged boards will often form hard oxides on metal surfaces that won't yield to gentle scrubbing. Media blasting (glass or plastic beads or crush walnut shells or corn cobs) will often help remove more stubborn oxides and tarnish.

==Specialty Techniques ('other')==
Depending on the equipment you have available, other cleaning methods can be beneficial.

Ultrasonic cleaning such as with a Bransonic cleaner can get rid of 'hidden' contaminants and reach areas direct scrubbing can't. It will also remove fluxes and oils if used in conjunction with appropriate detergents.

Media blasting ("bead blasting") is a dry cleaning method which is particularly good for removing oxidation build-up and some types of paint/coatings.

Media tumbling is most often used for cleaning small parts or spent ammunition casings ('brass'). It is also useful for removing oxidation or polishing of small parts for arcade games.

Metal cleaners/polishes ("Brasso", etc.) can be used to remove some types of metal oxidation/tarnished from chips and connectors.

[[Category:Tutorials]]

Champ

2015-02-23T14:39:25Z

Devil soundwave:

{{Infobox cabinet
|name = Champ
|kana =
|romaji =
|aka =
|image = Champ.jpg
|type = Sitdown
|year = 199x
|depth = 760
|width = 520
|height = 1170
|wiring = [[JAMMA]]
|monitor_size = 18
|monitor_sync = 15/24
|monitor_model =
|rotatable = Yes
|rotate_mech = No
|weight =
|power_supply =
|power =
}}
<gallery>
File:Champ1.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd June 2014
File:Champ2.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd June 2014
File:Champ3.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd June 2014
File:Champ4.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd February 2015
File:Champ5.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd February 2015
File:Champ6.jpg|Pulled from Yahoo Auctions Japan - 23rd February 2015

</gallery>
[[Category:Clones]]

File:Champ6.jpg

2015-02-23T14:38:37Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Champ5.jpg

2015-02-23T14:38:17Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Champ4.jpg

2015-02-23T14:38:00Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Mas25 3.jpg

2015-02-23T12:44:22Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Mas25 2.jpg

2015-02-23T12:44:01Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Mas25 1.jpg

2015-02-23T12:43:05Z

Devil soundwave:

Exciting

2014-09-29T13:51:03Z

Devil soundwave:

{{Infobox cabinet
|name = Exciting Videogame
|kana =
|romaji =
|aka =
|image =Exc1.jpeg
|type = Sitdown
|year = 1989~
|depth = unknown
|width = unknown
|height = unknown
|wiring = [[JAMMA]]
|monitor_size = 20
|monitor_sync = 15
|monitor_model = Eygo chassis with Orion tube (A48JLL40X18)
|rotatable = Yes
|rotate_mech = No
|weight = unknown
|power_supply = unknown
|power = 110
}}
==Info==
This cab is a "clone" of the Tecmo Urban from 1989. This is the only example of this cab that has so far been unearthed, and was found by Arcade Otaku member Wurstkopp from Germany.

It is a sit-down cab in the candy style, however the cab itself appears to largely be made of wood with plastic components on the front.

It is interesting in that it appears to house a 20 inch monitor as opposed to the Tecmo cab which housed a 26 inch monitor.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Exc1.jpeg
Image:Exc2.jpeg
Image:Exc.JPG
Image:Exc4.JPG
Image:Exc5.JPG
Image:Exc6.JPG
Image:Exc7.JPG
Image:Exc8.JPG
Image:Exc9.JPG
Image:Exc10.JPG
Image:Exc11.JPG
Image:Exc12.JPG
Image:Exc13.JPG
</gallery>

[[Category:Exciting]]

File:Exc13.JPG

2014-09-29T13:38:39Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc12.JPG

2014-09-29T13:38:08Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc11.JPG

2014-09-29T13:37:42Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc10.JPG

2014-09-29T13:37:13Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc9.JPG

2014-09-29T13:36:50Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc8.JPG

2014-09-29T13:36:23Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc7.JPG

2014-09-29T13:35:57Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc6.JPG

2014-09-29T13:35:32Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc5.JPG

2014-09-29T13:35:15Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc4.JPG

2014-09-29T13:34:43Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc.JPG

2014-09-29T13:33:53Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc2.jpeg

2014-09-29T13:32:58Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Exc1.jpeg

2014-09-29T13:32:19Z

Devil soundwave:

WeChe OK Jumbo

2014-07-14T22:43:30Z

Devil soundwave: /* Gallery */

{{Infobox cabinet
|name = WeChe OK Jumbo
|kana =
|romaji =
|aka =
|image = OKJumbo7.jpg
|type = Sitdown
|year =
|depth =
|width =
|height =
|wiring = [[JAMMA]]
|monitor_size = 36
|monitor_sync =
|monitor_lcdres =
|monitor_model = Hantarex Polo 38EK / 3
|rotatable = Yes
|rotate_mech =
|weight = 188
|power_supply =
|power = 140
}}
==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:OKJumbo1.jpg
Image:OKJumbo2.jpg
Image:OKJumbo3.jpg
Image:OKJumbo4.jpg
Image:OKJumbo6.jpg
Image:Jumbo1.jpg
Image:Jumbo2.jpg
</gallery>

[[Category:Cabinets]]
[[Category:Clones]]

File:Jumbo2.jpg

2014-07-14T22:42:10Z

Devil soundwave: Spotted on Mercado Libre in Argentina

Spotted on Mercado Libre in Argentina

File:Jumbo1.jpg

2014-07-14T22:41:32Z

Devil soundwave: Spotted on Mercado Libre Argentina

Spotted on Mercado Libre Argentina

Game Hardware Weights

2014-06-28T21:13:20Z

Devil soundwave:

'''ALL WEIGHTS ARE IN GRAMS'''
(Note: Weights includes estimated shipping packaging!)

This document appears in its [http://www.japandeal.se/gamesystems_swe.html original form] on the [http://www.japandeal.se/gamesystems.html Japandeal website], and has has been replicated here with the blessing of our friends in Sweden.

Special thanks to Johan and Blomman from Japandeal, Krister P Svensson for the IGS info, and the original author Tomas Dahlgren (UncleTom).

{| class="wikitable"
!SYSTEM/BOARD
!DETAILS
!WEIGHT
|-
!SEGA ST-V (Sega Titan Video)
15kHz, Jamma
|[[File:cart_stv.gif]]
|
|-
|Similar to the home console SATURN, the Sega STV system is capable of managing both polygon, as well as 2D games. Region is JAP or US and is dependent on which BIOS is installed. Certain games need their appropriate BIOS to work. (For instance Sando-R / Treasure Hunt needs the JAP BIOS.)

The battery on the mainboard is for scorekeeping and system settings. To change cartridge/ game can be rather tricky at times. Make sure you support the mainboard from under when pressing downward on the cart. Otherwise the board will bend. A good idea is to mount one extra PCB-foot under the cartridge interface to keep the board steady. Also mind to pull out the plastic cartridge-retainer when removing a cartridge, or the cart. will not come lose. Carts that won't boot or start, or give an error message, try first to clean the cartridge connector by gently rubbing it with alcohol and soft cloth or cotton buds.
|CARTRIDGE:
MOBO:
|230g
1100g
|-
!NAOMI (& NAOMI2)
15 kHz / VGA 31 kHz
JVS, Jamma (if used with the right I / O cards)
|[[File:cart_naomi.gif]]
|
|-
|NAOMI is the Dreamcast of the arcade, but with more memory and better textures. When changing cartridge make sure that you remove it by grabbing the sides of the cartridge pulling upward. Also when inserting a cartridge mind not to force it. Always check for proper orientation when inserting the cartridge by looking at the mark at the top.

Games for NAOMI works with NAOMI2, but not the other way around!

|CARTRIDGE:
MOBO WITH I/O & CABLING: 
NAOMI MOBO: 
NAOMI2 MOBO: 
I/O + CABLING: 
COMM BOARD: 
|440g 
3200g 
1700g 
1800g 
1000g 
300g 
|-
!NAOMI, NAOMI2 GD-ROMs
15 kHz / VGA 31 kHz
JVS, Jamma (if used together with I / O cards)
|[[File:cart_naomi_gd.gif]]
|
|-
|The GD-ROM disc comes together with a security chip and sometimes an instruction book (in Japanese). Each game's security chip is unique and is used with its particular game. Don't mix them up!

The size of the GD-ROM box is exactly like a DVD film. To play the GD-ROM games on your NAOMI setup requires a correct BIOS installed, at least 'revision D' is required. Also you need the DIMM PCB and the proper cables to go with it.

Also here it's necessary to remember that NAOMI2 games do not work with NAOMI mainboard.
|DISC & CHIP IN CASE: 
M & I/O system CABLE: 
GD-DRIVE only: 
DIMM PCB: 
CABLES: 
CAPCOM CONV. + CABLE: 
|160g 
?~3200g 
1200g 
700g 
?~300g 
980g 
|-
!NEO-GEO
15kHz, Jamma (1 slot)
MVS standard (2/4/6-slot)
|[[File:cart_neogeo.gif]]
|
|-
|NEO-GEO is without doubt the most popular game system of all time. Cartridges are easily changeable and easy to clean. Regions are JAP, US and Europe and are controlled by the BIOS, and all games work with each BIOS. One exception is the game Rage of the Dragons which has a reboot issue with most 1-slot mainboards. This is a factory problem and doesn't exist on other mainboards than the 1-slot.

Sometimes cartridges can be tricky to boot. Always clean the cartridge connections before installing the cartridge in you mainboard. Use alcohol and a soft cloth or tops. Do not polish or scrub unless there's severe oxide.

Also it is important that you observe that 1-SLOT mainboard is JAMMA, - but the 2, 4, & 6-SLOT mainboards are NOT JAMMA! There are certain differences in the way sound is connected.

See www.hardmvs.com for more information.

|CARTRIDGE: 
CARTRIDGE (as "kits"): 
MOBO SMALL MV1FZ: 
MOBO SMALL: 
MOBO MEDIUM (A): 
MOBO MEDIUM (B): 
MOBO MEDIUM LARGE PLASTIC: 
MOBO LARGE METAL: 
4-SLOT MOBO 'SMALL': 
4-SLOT MOBO: 
6-SLOT MOBO: 
|480g 
650g 
750g 
750g 
1100g 
1600g 
????g 
????g 
2600g 
3000g 
4700g 
|-
!HYPER NEO GEO 64
15kHz, Jamma
|[[File:cart_hyperneogeo64.gif]]
|
|-
|This very heavy system is not very practical to import from abroad. The computing power is less than the Sega STV, and there aren't many games to choose from.

The system board and cartridge are well embedded in metal casings which protects and shields them from being damaged, most probably due to
ugly graphics. Buy at your own risk if available at all.
|CARTRIDGE:
MOBO:
|1600g
?~5300g
|-
!TAITO F3
15kHz, Jamma
|[[File:cart_taito_f3.gif]]
|
|-
|This system resembles Capcom's CPS-2 in both cartridge swapping and computing power. However it is easier and lighter to handle because it's smaller. Regions are controlled by the game itself, and additionally by connector notches set in a certain position on the mainboard designating the various regions. These little 'key notches' can easily be removed (carved away) and the language can be modified with an EPROM swap inside the cart. Our Japanese carts are all RED. This system stores its settings in EEPROM, (no battery)

IMPORTANT: The little potentiometer / adjuster is NOT for the sound volume! It controls the voltage on certain onboard ICs and should NOT be adjusted!

When changing game/ cart, mind to press the TEST button located on the PCB to boot up the game first time. (Like on the Konami GX when changing the cartridge).

Also see to it that the little fan *blowing air in between the mainboard and cart*, is functioning. Otherwise system can overheat. Mind to orientate the fan to blow air INTO the system.
|CARTRIDGE:
MOBO:
|990g
850g
|-
!CAPCOM - CPS-2
15kHz, Jamma
|[[File:cart_cps2.gif]]
|
|-
|With its well designed and well integrated look this system has some of the heaviest cartridges on the market. Games are many, fighting, shooting and puzzles, it's the ''strong man's neo-geo''! The Japanese carts are green, and the regions are set.

The catch with this system is that the battery which is located in the cart is actually keeping the game alive. If it dies, your game dies. Of course it *can* be revived by Capcom, or if you decide to use the hacked ROMs from Razoola.
|CARTRIDGE "B-Board":
MOBO "A-board":
|1720g
1650g
|-
!MULTI SYSTEM & MISCELLANEOUS BOARD
|
|
|-
!ATOMISWAVE
|MOBO:
CARTRIDGE:
|1490g
160g
|-
!CAPCOM CPS1
|
|1?00 ~ 1900g
|-
!GIGA WING
|
|1750g
|-
!CPS1.5 "Q-SOUND"
|
|1?00 ~ 2800g
|-
!TENCHU O KARU 2 / WARRIORS OF FATE 2
|
|2800g
|-
!CAPCOM CPS3
|
|1890g
|-
!NAMCO SYSTEM 246
|COMPLETE: 
Game (CD + DONGLE + DRIVE): 
I/O PCB + CABLES: 
|?g 
?g 
270g 
|-
!SEGA MODEL 2 (SEGA RALLY), without metal cage:
|(Depends on how many ROMs that are on board, and if there is a "link-card" attached. Fully weighs 2800g, but mostly considering a version 2A CRX about 2500 g)
|2950g
|-
!SEGA MODEL 3, but metal cage
|(Depends on how many ROMs that are on board, and if there is a "link-card" attached. Fully weighs 2900g, but mostly considering a version 2.0 about 2650g, a Virtua Fighter 3 weighs 2500g)
|2650g (2400 without the link pcb)
|-
!KONAMI M2 SYSTEM - COMPLETE
|Mounted in a steel cabinet as a desktop PC with a CD drive.
|5300g
|-
!KONAMI GX SYSTEM - COMPLETE
|It consists of system board and ROM board.
|1090g
|-
!KONAMI SYSTEM 573 - COMPLETE
|It consists of system boards in box and CD-drive.
|4900g
|-
!NINTENDO / (SETA HARDWARE)
|HARDWARE:
GAME CART:
|690g
140g
|-
!SPI
|MOBO:
SPI CARTRIDGE:
|590g
450g
|-
!KANEKO SUPER NOVA
|MOBO:
CARTRIDGE:
|590g
290g
|-
!TAITO G-NET
|MOBO:
GAME "CARD":
|910g
70g
|-
!IGS
|MOBO:
IGS CARTRIDGE:
|760g
480g
|-
!JALECO MEGA SYSTEM 32
|MOBO:
CARTRIDGE:
|1050g
880g
|-
!TRI FORCE
|MOBO + DIMM:
|4450g
|-
!TAITO TYPE X
|MAIN UNIT:
GAME HDD:
|5800g
1200g
|-
!1943
|
|2400g
|-
!AERO FIGHTERS
|
|1050g
|-
!AJAX
|
|840g
|-
!AVENGERS IN GALACTIC STORM
|
|970g
|-
!BAL CUBE
|
|540g
|-
!BATTLE BAKRAID
|
|600g
|-
!BELLS & WHISTLES
|
|600g
|-
!BLACK TIGER
|
|1430g
|-
!BLADE MASTER
|
|1430g
|-
!BLAZE ON
|
|510g
|-
!BRAVE BLADE
|
|690g
|-
!BOMB JACK
|
|2350g
|-
!BUCKY O'HARE
|
|710g
|-
!CADASH
|
|790g
|-
!CAMUPS CROCKIS
|
|1620g
|-
!CAPCOM CPS 1.5 "CPS Q-Sound"
|
|2850g
|-
!CAPCOM CPS1 QUIZ '95
|
|1750g
|-
!CARRIER AIR WING
|
|1290g
|-
!CENTIPEDE (SMALLER BOARD)
|
|680g
|-
!CRUDE BUSTER
|
|1040g
|-
!CHANGE AIR BLADE
|
|1180g
|-
!D. D. CREW
|
|1240g
|-
!DAITORIDE / FORTRESS OF TILE III
|
|680g
|-
!DANCING EYES
|
|590g
|-
!DIET GO GO
|
|590g
|-
!DJ BOY
|
|630g
|-
!DONPACHI
|
|590g
|-
!DODONPACHI
|
|770g
|-
!DODONPACHI III
|
|1590g
|-
!DREAM 9
|
|590g
|-
!ESPGALUDA
|
|350g
|-
!ESPGALUDA II
|
|270g
|-
!ESP COATED
|
|730g
|-
!EXERION
|
|1180g
|-
!EXVANIA
|
|560g
|-
!FIGHTERS HISTORY
|
|720g
|-
!FIXEIGHT
|
|560g
|-
!FLAME GUNNER (SONY-ROM ONLY)
|
|310g
|-
!FLYING SHARK
|
|1180g
|-
!GO GO MILE SMILE
|
|750g
|-
!GALS PANIC 3
|
|1050g
|-
!GAPLUS
|
|980g
|-
!GOLD MEDALIST
|
|1040g
|-
!GOLDEN AXE 2: RODA
|
|1340g
|-
!GRADIUS IV (KONAMI HORNET)
|
|6400g
|-
!GUN FORCE
|
|1310g
|-
!GUSSUN OYOYO
|
|850g
|-
!GUNPEY
|
|340g
|-
!GUWANGE
|
|390g
|-
!HEATED BARREL
|
|740g
|-
!IBARA
|
|270g
|-
!IN THE HUNT
|
|1320g
|-
!JALECO MEGA SYSTEM
|
|1780g
|-
!KETSUI
|
|390g
|-
!KIKI KAIKAI (ORIGINAL)
|
|710g
|-
!KONAMI GX-ROM
|
|470g
|-
!LABYRINTH RUNNER
|
|470g
|-
!LADY KILLER
|
|680g
|-
!LODE RUNNER 'THE DIG FIGHT'
|
|630g
|-
!MACROSS PLUS
|
|990g
|-
!MAGIC SWORD (CPS1)
|
|1170g
|-
!MAGICAL TETRIS MICKEY
|
|580g
|-
!MAJOR TITLE 2
|
|1380g
|-
!MEIKIYUJIMA
|
|860g
|-
!MERCS (CPS1)
|
|1570g
|-
!MIDNIGHT RESISTANCE
|
|1040g
|-
!MOHJA
|
|460g
|-
!MONKEY BALL + PANEL + BANANA
|
|2150g
|-
!MOON PATROL
|
|1680g
|-
!MR. DRILLER G
|
|490g
|-
!MUSHIHIME
|
|270g
|-
!MYSTIC RIDERS
|
|1380g
|-
!NAMCO CLASSICS VOL.2
|
|380g
|-
!NEBULAS RAY
|
|950g
|-
!NEW ZEALAND STORY
|
|560g
|-
!NINJA BASEBALL BATMAN
|
|1390g
|-
!OUTFOXIES
|
|980g
|-
!PINK SWEETS
|
|270g
|-
!PLOTTING
|
|290g
|-
!POITTO!
|
|590g
|-
!PSYCHO-NICS OSCAR
|
|850g
|-
!PURURUN
|
|570g
|-
!PUYO PUYO
|
|550g
|-
!PUYO PUYO II
|
|270g
|-
!QUARTH
|
|670g
|-
!QIX
|
|1880g
|-
!R-TYPE
|
|1790g
|-
!R-TYPE LEO
|
|1390g
|-
!RABIO LEPUS
|
|1280g
|-
!RAIDEN 2
|
|710g
|-
!RAIDEN DX
|
|610g
|-
!RAIDEN FIGHTERS
|
|920g
|-
!RAIDEN FIGHTERS 2 (SMALL MOBO, CARTRIDGES 350g)
|
|790g
|-
!RAINBOW ISLANDS
|
|770g
|-
!RALLY BIKE
|
|860g
|-
!RALLY X (Double Board)
|
|1020g
|-
!RAY STORM
|
|730g
|-
!RODLAND
|
|1290g
|-
!ROHGA: ARMOUR FORCE
|
|940g
|-
!SAINT DRAGON
|
|1410g
|-
!SALAMANDER 2
|
|1170g
|-
!SENTEI BEAT (Really CENTIPEDE)
|
|650g
|-
!SEXY PARODIUS
|
|1040g
|-
!SKULL FUNG
|
|930g
|-
!SLAP SHOT
|
|910g
|-
!SOLDAM
|
|1270g
|-
!SPACE BOMBER
|
|460g
|-
!SPACE INVADERS DX
|
|710g
|-
!STAR TRINE
|
|520g
|-
!STORM BLADE
|
|1280g
|-
!STRATO FIGHTER
|
|1540g
|-
!STREET SMART
|
|1160g
|-
!STRIKERS 1945 II
|
|410g
|-
!SUNSET RIDERS
|
|640g
|-
!SUPER BISHI BASHI
|
|760g
|-
!SUPER CONTRA
|
|1420g
|-
!TANTO R
|
|490g
|-
!TEKKEN 3
|
|780g
|-
!TENCHU O KARU 2 (CPS 1.5/QSOUND)
|
|2840g
|-
!TETRIS PLUS 2
|
|1810g
|-
!TOHGENKYOH
|
|470g
|-
!TORA ENO MICHI
|
|1490g
|-
!TROJAN
|
|1570g
|-
!TRUXTON / TATSUJIN
|
|850g
|-
!TRUXTON 2 / TATSUJIN OU
|
|570g
|-
!TWIN COBRA
|
|1360g
|-
!UO POKO
|
|350g
|-
!V-V (GRINDSTORMER)
|
|440g
|-
!VALKYRIE NO DENSETSU
|
|1910g
|-
!VARTH ("CPS1.5" or "CPS Q-Sound")
|
|1290g
|-
!VASARA 2
|
|1040g
|-
!VOLIFIED
|
|1040g
|-
!WOW
|
|780g
|-
!XEVIOUS 3D
|
|580g
|-
!ZERO TEAM
|
|730g
|-

|}

File:Cart taito f3.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:56Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart stv.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:46Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart neogeo.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:36Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart naomi gd.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:27Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart naomi.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:16Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart hyperneogeo64.gif

2014-06-28T20:49:04Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cart cps2.gif

2014-06-28T20:48:44Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Champ3.jpg

2014-06-23T09:25:51Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Champ2.jpg

2014-06-23T09:25:31Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Champ1.jpg

2014-06-23T09:24:53Z

Devil soundwave: Pulled from Yahoo Auctions.

Pulled from Yahoo Auctions.

User:Devil soundwave

2010-03-05T12:51:39Z

Devil soundwave: /* Cabinets */

My Arcade stuff

==Cabinets==
1 x [[WeChe_OK_Baby | WeChe OK Baby]]

1 x [[Sega_New_Net_City | Sega New Net City]]

1 x [[Konami_Windy | Konami Windy]]

1 x [[Konami_Windy_II | Konami Windy II]]

==Games==

===Printed Circuit Boards===

The New Zealand Story

===Cartridges & Rom Boards===

====Neo Geo====

Sengoku 3 (Bootleg) - English
Garou: Mark of The Wolves - Japanese with fake English label
Puzzle Bobble - English
Puzzle de Pon - English

====CPS1====

Street Fighter 2: Championship Edition

====CPS2====

Street Fighter Alpha - Blue - Phoenixed
Street Fighter Alpha 2 - Blue
Aliens Vs Predator - Blue
Puzzle Fighter 2 X - Yellow
X-Men vs Streetfighter - Blue

==Sundries==

Jamma Extension Harness
CPS2 Kick Harness

==Games==

File:Cadash13.jpg

2010-03-05T12:28:07Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash12.jpg

2010-03-05T12:27:55Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash11.jpg

2010-03-05T12:27:40Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash10.jpg

2010-03-05T12:27:19Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash9.jpg

2010-03-05T12:27:06Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash8.jpg

2010-03-05T12:26:53Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash7.jpg

2010-03-05T12:26:39Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash6.jpg

2010-03-05T12:26:23Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash5.jpg

2010-03-05T12:26:10Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash4.jpg

2010-03-05T12:25:59Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash3.jpg

2010-03-05T12:25:32Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash2.jpg

2010-03-05T12:25:21Z

Devil soundwave:

File:Cadash1.jpg

2010-03-05T12:25:04Z

Devil soundwave: