Arcade Otaku Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

File:FILE0529.jpg

2015-07-07T18:53:23Z

Roothorick:

Pump it UP CX cabinet with Fiesta EX software.

This is a preliminary cabinet that was displayed at an arcade convention. The new platform hadn't been finished yet.

File:P1000126.jpg

2015-07-07T18:49:19Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP TX cabinet with Infinity software.

Pump it UP TX cabinet with Infinity software.

File:NX FX machine.jpg

2015-07-07T18:48:16Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP FX cabinet with NX software.

Pump it UP FX cabinet with NX software.

File:PUMPITUPNX2.jpg

2015-07-07T18:46:54Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP "SX2" cabinet with NX2 software.

Pump it UP "SX2" cabinet with NX2 software.

File:NX2 GX machine.jpg

2015-07-07T18:45:23Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP GX cabinet with NX2 software.

Pump it UP GX cabinet with NX2 software.

File:165000101.jpg

2015-07-07T18:44:03Z

Roothorick: Flyer for Pump it UP DX cabinet

Flyer for Pump it UP DX cabinet

File:PumpSX.jpg

2015-07-07T18:41:09Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP SX cabinet with Premiere 2 marquee

Pump it UP SX cabinet with Premiere 2 marquee

File:Pump it up perfect.jpg

2015-07-07T18:33:42Z

Roothorick: Pump it UP SD cabinet with Perfect Collection marquee

Pump it UP SD cabinet with Perfect Collection marquee

Talk:Pump it UP

2015-07-07T01:23:02Z

Roothorick: I FORGOT TO SIG!

I'll need others to fill in much of the details here. Almost everything I know is just from my personal GX and MK6. Particularly:

* There's a fourth variant of the MK9? What's in it?
* Pretty much anything about the first gen. I filled in what I could find online but it isn't much. Particularly important to document common failures and fixes for them, if any.
[[User:Roothorick|Roothorick]] ([[User talk:Roothorick|talk]]) 02:23, 7 July 2015 (BST)

User:Roothorick

2015-07-07T01:22:38Z

Roothorick: Created page with "Yep, I'm the Pump it UP guy. I have an MVS cab too, but I'm not really an expert on that."

Yep, I'm the [[Pump it UP]] guy. I have an MVS cab too, but I'm not really an expert on that.

Category:Andamiro

2015-07-07T01:15:21Z

Roothorick: Created page with "Category:Developers Category:Manufacturers"

[[Category:Developers]] [[Category:Manufacturers]]

Kortek xx14

2015-07-07T01:13:46Z

Roothorick: Typo!

Korean-made (duh!) quad-sync (standard, medium, VGA, SVGA) monitors. Digital control with OSD, dynamic focus, EDID, the works. Really awesome monitors... when they work. Usually has a Samsung tube, occasionally an LG.

Service manual [http://na.suzohapp.com/service_center/pdf/ktxx14x_sm.pdf here].

Model number is simply KT-xx14(D)(F), where xx is the screen size. F, presumably, means a flat tube; D means [[Monitor Terminology|dual focus]].

Known variants:

* KT-2114F
* KT-2114DF
* KT-2914
* KT-2914F
* KT-2914DF
* KT-3414DF (somewhat uncommon; it's rumored that these were a special commission made for Andamiro and only used in [[Pump it UP]] and In the Groove 2 cabinets. Likely, as the PCB is marked KT-2914, and they certainly haven't been found anywhere else.)

For whatever reason, these monitors fully support DPMS. You can turn them soft-off the way you would a newer consumer monitor -- by grounding the connector shell without sending a signal. Maybe it was intended that they'd make a consumer version at some point.

This chassis is a bit unusual in that the heater voltage comes from a dedicated rail on the power supply, instead of the flyback. Of course, this means the flyback is special... and hard to find. New/NOS dual focus flys are not available period; your only hope is to find a donor chassis. All sizes use the same flyback, and single focus chassis have shipped with dual focus flys and the second wire left disconnected, so that helps.

Switch mode power supply; 90-264V full range.

Common failures:

* Flyback... yeah. If the picture is really unstable in both directions, you might want to just get a new monitor.
* EEPROM corruption. Turn up the flyback screen voltage until you get a little bit of raster glow; if you're a little lucky, you'll get a faint image as well. Turn it off, then back on while holding UP on the remote board. Then press MENU. This will get you the factory OSD menu. From here you should be able to fix the picture. Check the color temperature setting in particular.
* Cold/weak solder joints. In particular, reflow T101, C728, C727, C709, C705, C702 ([http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=157123 source])
* Bad capacitors. A lot of these chassis came from the capacitor plague era. Swap ALL electrolytics, using the part list in the service manual as a guide. Even if the monitor works, you might want to swap them anyway. Bad caps can kill other, more expensive components.

[[Category:Monitors]]

Monitor Terminology

2015-07-07T00:20:20Z

Roothorick: Add: dual focus

'''crt''' - cathode ray tube,television tube 
'''yoke''' - scan coils,deflection coil 
'''chassis''' - monitor control circuit board 
'''degauss''' - demagnetising circuit of the chassis 
'''ht''' - high tension,high voltage power to the tube 
'''flyback transformer''' - lopt,high voltage transformer 
'''dual focus''' - A monitor that has two focus adjustments: one for horizontal, and one for vertical. The neck connector has two focus pins, and a special flyback is needed with two focus pots and wires.

[[Category:Monitors]]