Sega Blast City FAQ

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Blast City FAQ

Q: My cabinet will not power on when everything is plugged in. What's wrong?
A: The Blast City has a safety switch on the PCB door. The cabinet will not turn on unless the switch is depressed. Sega used to sell cheaters that would press on the switch when the PCB door was removed. You can safely use a zip tie in place of a cheater. Or use a bypass cable

Q: The Blast is 110v. Is it possible to convert these to 230v or is the power supply strictly 110v only?
A: Some Blast PSUs say 100v only. Those should work fine on 120v. There are reports of PSUs labelled 100v - 250v.[1] Check the sticker on your PSU!


Q: The control panel on my Blast is 1P. How difficult/expensive is it to source a 2P panel?
A: Brand new official 1P and 2P panels are still being produced (as of August 2012). If you already have sticks and buttons, the bare panels aren't that expensive.


Q: I've never actually played a Blast. Are they similar to a Sega New Astro City to play on? I'd hate to buy one and not enjoy using it.
A: Do you dislike playing on a NAC? I doubt you'll find the Blast feels different.


Q: Are the chassis reliable? I understand replacement flybacks are not available. Is there a replacement chassis for these tubes?
A: Wei-ya has a replacement chassis for Blasts.


Q: How difficult is it to rotate the monitor?
A: Despite not having a rotate mechanism like the Taito Egret II, it is relatively easy to rotate the monitor. At most, it will require two people.

References